London Make-up Blog

Sunday, 10 November 2024

Acids in Skincare: How to Choose the Right One for Your Skin Type

Acids have become some of the most sought-after ingredients in skincare. They’re known for addressing a variety of skin issues, from fine lines and dullness to acne and uneven texture. But with so many options—glycolic, lactic, hyaluronic, salicylic, and more—it’s not always easy to know which is best suited for your skin type. Here’s a breakdown of the most popular acids, their unique benefits, and how to use them for glowing, healthy skin.

1. Glycolic Acid

Best for: Normal to oily skin, uneven texture, scarring and hyperpigmentation

Glycolic acid is an AHA (alpha-hydroxy acid) derived from sugarcane. It has the smallest molecular size of the AHAs, allowing it to penetrate deeply for effective exfoliation. Glycolic acid removes dead skin cells, brightens the complexion, and promotes cell turnover, which helps reduce hyperpigmentation and smooth skin texture. However, due to its potency, those with sensitive skin should start with a lower concentration and gradually increase usage as tolerated.

My Favourites: The Ordinary Glycolic Toner, Superdrug Naturally Radiant Glycolic Toner

2. Lactic Acid

Best for: Sensitive and dry skin

Lactic acid is a gentler AHA derived from milk. It’s an excellent choice for sensitive or dry skin types because it provides hydration in addition to exfoliation. It helps improve skin texture and fade mild discoloration without the irritation often associated with stronger AHAs. Lactic acid is a great starting acid for beginners and works well in a nighttime routine to soften and brighten the skin.

My Favourites: Garden of Wisdom Lactic Acid

3. Mandelic Acid

Best for: Sensitive and acne-prone skin

Mandelic acid, another AHA, has a larger molecular size, making it one of the gentlest exfoliating acids. Derived from bitter almonds, it works more slowly than other AHAs, which reduces the risk of irritation while still helping to smooth skin and reduce acne. It’s particularly suitable for sensitive skin types and those who find glycolic or lactic acid too harsh. Mandelic acid is often recommended for acne-prone skin due to its anti-inflammatory properties.

4. Salicylic Acid

Best for: Oily and acne-prone skin

Salicylic acid is a BHA (beta-hydroxy acid) that’s oil-soluble, allowing it to penetrate deep into the pores to dissolve excess sebum and clear out dead skin cells. It’s particularly effective for treating blackheads, whiteheads, and acne. By exfoliating inside the pores, it helps to prevent and treat breakouts. Because salicylic acid can be drying, it’s best used on oily or acne-prone skin and should be balanced with hydrating products to prevent over-drying.

My Favourites: DoSe Salicylic Acid,

5. Azelaic Acid

Best for: Rosacea, acne, and hyperpigmentation

Azelaic acid is naturally occurring in grains and known for its anti-inflammatory and antimicrobial properties. It’s particularly beneficial for people with rosacea, as it calms redness and reduces inflammation. Azelaic acid is also effective in treating mild acne and reducing hyperpigmentation, making it a good choice for sensitive skin types dealing with multiple skin concerns.

My Favourites: DoSe Azelaic Acid

6. Hyaluronic Acid

Best for: All skin types, especially dry and dehydrated skin

While technically not an exfoliating acid, hyaluronic acid is a powerhouse hydrator. It’s a humectant, meaning it attracts moisture to the skin, helping to plump and smooth fine lines. Suitable for all skin types, it works particularly well when layered under moisturiser to lock in hydration. Using hyaluronic acid can help combat any dryness that may result from using other exfoliating acids.

My Favourites: DoSe Hyaluronic Acid,

7. Polyhydroxy Acids (PHAs)

Best for: Extremely sensitive skin and those new to acids

Polyhydroxy acids, including gluconolactone and lactobionic acid, are a newer class of acids that work similarly to AHAs but with a larger molecular size. This makes them less likely to cause irritation, making them ideal for sensitive skin. PHAs provide mild exfoliation and have hydrating properties, making them a gentle alternative for those who can’t tolerate traditional AHAs or BHAs.

My Favourites: DoSe PHA Exfoliating Serum

8. Ferulic Acid

Best for: Antioxidant protection and sun damage

Ferulic acid is an antioxidant often found in combination with vitamins C and E. Unlike exfoliating acids, ferulic acid helps protect the skin from environmental stressors like pollution and UV damage. It stabilises other antioxidants, enhancing their effects, and helps reduce the appearance of fine lines, hyperpigmentation, and uneven skin tone over time. Including ferulic acid in a morning routine can boost skin’s resilience against daily stressors, making it an excellent addition to anti-aging routines.

My Favourites: Skinceuticals C E Ferulic,

How to Choose the Right Acid for Your Skin

Identify Your Skin Type: Understanding whether your skin is oily, dry, sensitive, or combination will help narrow down the acids best suited for your needs.
Consider Your Skin Concerns: From hydration and fine lines to acne and pigmentation, each acid has specific benefits that address different concerns.
Start Slowly: Introduce one acid at a time to see how your skin responds. Overuse can lead to irritation, so begin with a lower concentration and gradually increase frequency.
Don’t Forget SPF: Acids can increase sun sensitivity, so it’s essential to wear sunscreen daily to protect your skin from UV damage.

Choosing the right acid can transform your skincare routine and deliver results tailored to your skin’s needs. Whether you’re looking for deeper hydration, gentle exfoliation, or targeted acne treatment, there’s likely an acid that’s a perfect fit. And remember, always patch-test new products and consult a skincare professional if you have any concerns about starting with acids.

Tune in to our latest podcast episode to learn more about each of these acids, including usage tips, layering, and real-life examples of how they can enhance your skincare journey!

The Beauty Bite

Ever wish you had a makeup artist helping you in the mornings? Or a skincare expert talking you through your skincare routine before bed? A coach to get you up and ready first thing, or talk you through a meditation to release anxiety? Well now you can have all three in your ears whenever you choose. Come and join The Beauty Bite

Retinol and the Vitamin A Pathway

What are Retinoids?
Retinoids is a blanket term for a class of Vitamin A which is commonly used in skincare. Retinoic acid is the ingredient with the most scientific evidence for anti-aging benefits. By increasing collagen production, this ingredient helps thicken the dermis (the middle layer of skin) and therefore smooths out wrinkles.

When to use
You can use these products day or night but be aware of protecting your skin if using in sunlight. As well as thickening the dermis, retinoic acid thins our outer layer of skin by roughly 1/3 which means our natural sun protection is a little less which is why, when using Retinoids by day it is very important to use a good suncream - which you should be doing all the time anyway. Retinoids applied at night help normalise the skin structure by increasing cellular mitosis which in turn stimulates collagen production.

Benefits
As well as boosting collagen production and reducing the appearance of aging, Retinoic acid is an effective skin communicating ingredient. This means that it instructs cells how to behave and can boost skin health and appearance at any age. Although it is thought of as an ingredient to use to prevent signs of aging, you can start using this from your mid-20s when your cell turnover starts to slow.

Retinoids have a number of additional benefits alongside their anti-aging properties. For instance they are great for reducing hyperpigmentation as they inhibit melatonin production.

Overclaims
Retinyl palmitate is included in many suncreams which allows manufacturers to claim that they are anti-aging. However this compound is the least effective retinoid, and is often used in such small amounts that it cannot have any affect. Some studies even show it has been associated with skin cancer.

Retinol or Retinal?
Vitamin A travels through several stages known as the 'Vitamin A Pathway'. (See graphic.) Retinoic acid is 'active' on the skin and all retinoid products must convert to retinoic acid to be effective. Retinol converts to retinal which in turn converts to retinoic acid.

Retinol is the most commonly found form of Vitamin A, the most stable and therefore the most easy to manufacture. It is the first stage in the Vitamin A pathway so it needs two conversions to become retinoic acid.
Retinal is much less stable so it is harder to find. It is the next step along the pathway so only needs to make one conversion to retinoic acid meaning it is often gentler on sensitive skins
Retinoic acid in its converted form is only available via prescription and is often known by tretinoin or a brand name such as Retin-A.

Using some form of retanoid in your skincare is an excellent way to troubleshoot a whole host of problems and achieve the skin you want. I've listed some of my favourites below

Retinol - The Ordinary Retinol - usually I don't like this brand very much but I've heard great things about their retinol

Retinal - Tropic Youth Potion (search Youth Potion) - this is new and, having used tretinoin for years I didn't expect this to make any visible difference but I saw it almost immediately. Skin texture was improved, my skin was glowing and I think I can see a big improvement in my dark cirles.

Retinoic Acid (Tretanoin) - Skin + Me - I have used this for nearly 2 years and I really love it. Fill out the online consultation and get your own prescription.

Chemical vs Physical Suncream

Understanding suncare is something I feel very passionate about as there is a lot of misinformation out there. Sun damage and photo-ageing are often the reason people want to improve their skin routine, as with most things it's much easier to prevent than cure. A good suncream, proper skin routine and use of antioxidants in your skincare can really help the youthful appearance of your skin and is better for your overall health.

A major problem caused by sun damage is that the collagen that holds the dermis and epidermis together is one of the first to be broken down by UV resulting in skin movement and flaccidity as we age. This is nearly impossible to repair but pretty easy to prevent. Use a good suncream.

So what is the difference between a chemical and physical suncream?

Chemical Suncream:

This makes up the majority of sunscreens. These penetrate the epidermis to work in and on the skin to absorb the sun's rays before they can penetrate the dermis and cause damage. The chemicals absorb the UV, convert to heat which is then released from the body.
A single chemical often can't do both UVA and UVB protection so they will make a compound of a couple of chemicals. These chemicals are harmful to sea-life and coral - in fact some are banned in certain parts of North America and Australia.
Chemical sunscreens have been shown to cause more free-radical damage (it's not just UV damage that causes free-radical damage but it can be the chemicals themselves), hyperpigmentation and they are more likely to causes sensitivity and prickly head in children.

Physical Suncream:

Designed to stay on the surface of the skin and act like a shield, these individual ingredients work effectively against both forms of UV.
Look for zinc oxide and titanium dioxide, ideally non-nano (coral and marine safe).
Nano or non-nano refer to the size of the particles - nano is smaller and therefore more is absorbed in through the skin. Absorption of these two is fine, we have zinc in our bodies anyway but you want to maintain safe levels which is why it's good to go for non-nano.
These are ideal for those with sensitive skin and children. Think about nappy rash creams, they often contain zinc as a healer of the skin.
Also it's not going to leave yellow stains on your clothes which is an added bonus

My favourite suncreams are:

DoTerra Face + Body Stick - for on the go this is the one that won't leak, works on all the family and even goes on well over makeup
DoTerra Face + Body - the cream version of the stick. More expensive so I have this in my bathroom for my own use (and my husband if he ever remembers) to use on my body during the summer
Tropic Skin Shade - I use this ever single day, a lovely tinted physical suncream the gives a warm healthy glow to the skin
Tropic Skin Shade - this is what I have in the kitchen for the whole family to use

All of these recommendations contain zinc which won't be suitable for those allergic to zinc. If you are allergic to zinc then this is the suncream I recommend from Green People.