Acids have become some of the most sought-after ingredients in skincare. They’re known for addressing a variety of skin issues, from fine lines and dullness to acne and uneven texture. But with so many options—glycolic, lactic, hyaluronic, salicylic, and more—it’s not always easy to know which is best suited for your skin type. Here’s a breakdown of the most popular acids, their unique benefits, and how to use them for glowing, healthy skin.
1. Glycolic Acid
Best for: Normal to oily skin, uneven texture, scarring and hyperpigmentation
Glycolic acid is an AHA (alpha-hydroxy acid) derived from sugarcane. It has the smallest molecular size of the AHAs, allowing it to penetrate deeply for effective exfoliation. Glycolic acid removes dead skin cells, brightens the complexion, and promotes cell turnover, which helps reduce hyperpigmentation and smooth skin texture. However, due to its potency, those with sensitive skin should start with a lower concentration and gradually increase usage as tolerated.
My Favourites: The Ordinary Glycolic Toner, Superdrug Naturally Radiant Glycolic Toner
2. Lactic Acid
Best for: Sensitive and dry skin
Lactic acid is a gentler AHA derived from milk. It’s an excellent choice for sensitive or dry skin types because it provides hydration in addition to exfoliation. It helps improve skin texture and fade mild discoloration without the irritation often associated with stronger AHAs. Lactic acid is a great starting acid for beginners and works well in a nighttime routine to soften and brighten the skin.
My Favourites: Garden of Wisdom Lactic Acid
3. Mandelic Acid
Best for: Sensitive and acne-prone skin
Mandelic acid, another AHA, has a larger molecular size, making it one of the gentlest exfoliating acids. Derived from bitter almonds, it works more slowly than other AHAs, which reduces the risk of irritation while still helping to smooth skin and reduce acne. It’s particularly suitable for sensitive skin types and those who find glycolic or lactic acid too harsh. Mandelic acid is often recommended for acne-prone skin due to its anti-inflammatory properties.
4. Salicylic Acid
Best for: Oily and acne-prone skin
Salicylic acid is a BHA (beta-hydroxy acid) that’s oil-soluble, allowing it to penetrate deep into the pores to dissolve excess sebum and clear out dead skin cells. It’s particularly effective for treating blackheads, whiteheads, and acne. By exfoliating inside the pores, it helps to prevent and treat breakouts. Because salicylic acid can be drying, it’s best used on oily or acne-prone skin and should be balanced with hydrating products to prevent over-drying.
My Favourites: DoSe Salicylic Acid,
5. Azelaic Acid
Best for: Rosacea, acne, and hyperpigmentation
Azelaic acid is naturally occurring in grains and known for its anti-inflammatory and antimicrobial properties. It’s particularly beneficial for people with rosacea, as it calms redness and reduces inflammation. Azelaic acid is also effective in treating mild acne and reducing hyperpigmentation, making it a good choice for sensitive skin types dealing with multiple skin concerns.
My Favourites: DoSe Azelaic Acid
6. Hyaluronic Acid
Best for: All skin types, especially dry and dehydrated skin
While technically not an exfoliating acid, hyaluronic acid is a powerhouse hydrator. It’s a humectant, meaning it attracts moisture to the skin, helping to plump and smooth fine lines. Suitable for all skin types, it works particularly well when layered under moisturiser to lock in hydration. Using hyaluronic acid can help combat any dryness that may result from using other exfoliating acids.
My Favourites: DoSe Hyaluronic Acid,
7. Polyhydroxy Acids (PHAs)
Best for: Extremely sensitive skin and those new to acids
Polyhydroxy acids, including gluconolactone and lactobionic acid, are a newer class of acids that work similarly to AHAs but with a larger molecular size. This makes them less likely to cause irritation, making them ideal for sensitive skin. PHAs provide mild exfoliation and have hydrating properties, making them a gentle alternative for those who can’t tolerate traditional AHAs or BHAs.
My Favourites: DoSe PHA Exfoliating Serum
8. Ferulic Acid
Best for: Antioxidant protection and sun damage
Ferulic acid is an antioxidant often found in combination with vitamins C and E. Unlike exfoliating acids, ferulic acid helps protect the skin from environmental stressors like pollution and UV damage. It stabilises other antioxidants, enhancing their effects, and helps reduce the appearance of fine lines, hyperpigmentation, and uneven skin tone over time. Including ferulic acid in a morning routine can boost skin’s resilience against daily stressors, making it an excellent addition to anti-aging routines.
My Favourites: Skinceuticals C E Ferulic,
How to Choose the Right Acid for Your Skin
- Identify Your Skin Type: Understanding whether your skin is oily, dry, sensitive, or combination will help narrow down the acids best suited for your needs.
- Consider Your Skin Concerns: From hydration and fine lines to acne and pigmentation, each acid has specific benefits that address different concerns.
- Start Slowly: Introduce one acid at a time to see how your skin responds. Overuse can lead to irritation, so begin with a lower concentration and gradually increase frequency.
- Don’t Forget SPF: Acids can increase sun sensitivity, so it’s essential to wear sunscreen daily to protect your skin from UV damage.
Choosing the right acid can transform your skincare routine and deliver results tailored to your skin’s needs. Whether you’re looking for deeper hydration, gentle exfoliation, or targeted acne treatment, there’s likely an acid that’s a perfect fit. And remember, always patch-test new products and consult a skincare professional if you have any concerns about starting with acids.
Tune in to our latest podcast episode to learn more about each of these acids, including usage tips, layering, and real-life examples of how they can enhance your skincare journey!
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