Azelaic Acid

One ingredient that even I only came to hear about over the past year is Azelaic Acid but it's already become one of my most recommended products and incredibly popular in my Facebook group.

What is it?
It is a gentle exfoliating acid that you leave on the skin to unclog pores and improve skin tone and texture. The thing that drew it to me was it can improve skin sensitivity which very few ingredients do successfully. It is also an antioxidant and you know how I feel about those (if you don't you can read how I feel about them here).

Though it can form naturally in wheat and barley the kind we use is most often created in a lab where we can have more control over it's efficacy and and stability (a lot of actives can become unstable when exposed to UV and oxygen making them hard to use effectively in skincare - be careful where you get you Vitamin C for example).

You can get higher levels of Azelaic Acid on prescription but there are now lots more becoming available from non-dermatologist brands.

How does it work?
It stops the 'problems' in the upper layers of our skin from being able to form. So cells that would usually cause melasma for example can be stopped from doing so. It is also anti-bacterial so can help with breakouts and acne. It breaks down the bonds that hold the dull dead skin cells to the surface of the face so these can be sloughed away.

What can it do?

• Reduces skin sensitivity
• Refines skin surface
• Gives a more even skin tone
• Fades skin blemishes and acne scars

Who's it for?
Everyone. But especially good for those who have struggled using AHA exfoliators or who have extreme sensitivity. Also works well for those with Rosacea who have maybe found other products irritating.

How do I use it?

• Wonderfully this can be used twice a day if you want to as its very unlikely to cause sensitivity. You can either apply it after cleansing as it is or, leave it to work on the skin for 5 minutes and then use other serums or moisturiser. 
• If you use an AHA/BHA you can continue to do so but keep an eye on your skin to make sure you are not over doing it. Remember you can always focus the use of both products in the problem areas alone - for example, if you have dry bumps on your forehead, sweep the forehead with Pixi Glow Tonic and then put Azaelic Acid over the whole face. 
• If you are using in the morning make sure you are also using sun protection. 

Where can I get it?

• Garden of Wisdom Azelaic Acid - this is the one I use and have recommended to my clients. It has never irritated my skin and has definitely improved it's sensitivity. £9 for 30ml and worth every penny. I just with the bottle wasn't plastic. Cruelty-free and vegan. 
• The Ordinary Azelaic Acid Suspension 10% - a gel formula, very reasonably priced at £5.50 for 30ml. Squeezy tube packaging.